An EDD-ter’s Tour of Italy – Siena

One of the most wonderful surprises during our trip was the medieval village of Siena in Tuscany. It’s easy to imagine princes and princesses, dukes and dragons, and all manner of swords and sorcery while walking the narrow cobblestone streets of this town.

It’s also easy to gawk at the tempting nibbles of salami, formaggio, and gelato along your stroll.

So much of the town seemed untouched in the rainy drizzle of the November morning when we arrived. We made our way slowly toward the famous Piazza del Campo that when entering felt much like emerging out of a dense jungle into a wide ocean. It was thrilling to imagine the bartering and marketplace activity that must have happened here day in and day out in medieval times.

I must mention that this famous tower is called “The Eater’s Tower” due to its first guardian being known to spend all his money on food. Was this a prophetic sign for things to come?

But nothing could have prepared us for the Duomo in Siena and its adjoining cathedral. Towering above all the orange brick buildings of Siena are the dramatic black and white marble towers of this incredible gothic cathedral. It appears adorned on every corner of its outer facade with elaborate carvings of medieval creatures and intricate designs. And within its walls, every inch is crafted with purpose and care – a testament to the time, sacrifice and devotion its artists had for this structure. We were extremely lucky as well to have viewed the legendary marble-etched floor inside which was uncovered in its entirety (only 6 weeks out of year)!

I also must mention the Piccolomini Library that felt alive when I walked into it. Its wonderfully preserved Renaissance frescoes teeming with gold inlay and brightly colored detail, as well as, an amazing collection of medieval choir books took me back in time to something akin to a historical fairytale.

As we left the cathedral, we walked as if in a waking dream and only snapped back into reality when our stomachs started growling and we absolutely had to find the perfect dining experience to go along with our new found love for Siena.

And we found it – Antica Osteria Da Divo.

Da Divo is housed in ancient Etruscan rooms cut out of the ‘tufa’, the soft volcanic rock on which Siena is built. Cozily lit and surrounded by exposed ancient rock walls, we settled into our table and couldn’t believe our luck in not only finding the place but squeaking in with a last-minute reservation.

We had an array of rustic yet elegant Tuscan dishes that ranged from crispy breaded anchovy fillets pungent with extra virgin olive oil, famous Florentine-style T-bone steak carved table side, Senelese style pasta – thick and chewy – in a rich robust wild boar ragu flavored with whole juniper berries, and an indulgent porcini mushroom risotto finished table side in a Tuscan pecorino cheese wheel. Unbelievable.

We finished off our many courses with plenty of Chianti Classico and homemade Italian cookies with espresso. Oh, and there was a chocolate lava cake – more chocolaty than sickly sweet – that just happened to appear on our table.

Needless to say we were seriously delirious and pretty slap-happy when we finally stood up after the hours of warm-cozy-delicious-sumptuous-all-day-sight(eat)seeing in Siena.

The cold drizzle outside was a welcome embrace when we walked outside. Again we were immediately transported back in time except now the village looked excitingly dangerous in the dark.

Somehow we found our way back to our car and sadly bid farewell to Siena.

We vowed to return one day.

But now, it was time to head to Florence.

p.s. Don’t forget to check Food Pix for more photos from Siena!

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